Cuban society really got under my skin when I travelled there for a few weeks.
You hear a lot before going to this carabian perl – a lot of people have an oppinion, well here is mine after actually beeing there!
The first expirience, arriving:
The airport seemed a bit strange, one cash mashine, but the screen stated I was beeing robbed. Cuban Pesos Convertible (for tourists) vs. pesos (for cubans) - exchange rate of 27 between them. Well having two currencies seems a bit strange, of cause, the system is makes sure the tourists purchasing power is well used. Cubans do not earn a great deal, and if the tourists had their foriegn income here they would be very rich indeed. I do understand why they have this system of two currencies – even if it seems a bit capitalistic in this communistic country.
Looking at the cash machine was surprising I must say, first they change to US dollars then they send the bill to the Danish bank, well there is an 11% fee on any redraws and the currency against dollars is very bad – Cuba is expensive to travel in, that was a surprise!
Driving to Havana – getting to the hotel was fine, but already in the first few hours I was finding my self in a particular situation. I needed some food and Michel from the hotel was send to help me. I was thinking; “Cool, he seems as a nice guy” and he was I still believe. He showed me a place to eat, sat down and gave me company. After a short introduction he had a box of cigars for me to buy. The food was extremely expensive I told him I did not want to buy cigars now.
He knew the restaurant, and of cause they took way too much for the meal. I was indeed screwed by them. The complexity of the situation is actually that he really was a nice guy he made sure I went the right places afterwards and so on. I suppose he was just trying to make a living.
I was beginning to see the two sided society, how the hospitality of the Cubans sometimes is linked to their scarce resources and how the common man begs on the street openly. The two currency system plays a central role in this, if I gave 10 convertibles it would match half a month of salary to the Cuban – he can change the convertible to Pesos, and if he is a good spotter of new tourist he can become a rich man!
Next day I really got the creeps – I could not leave the hotel without getting chatted up by some Cuban trying to sell me cigars, still I have one experience where the two sided society comes alive:
One guy seemed especially nice, He came to me, I told him right away that he would not get any money from me. He showed me central Havana using three hours walking around, talking about the system – in general giving me a cultural experience – amazing stuff. The only thing he asked for was a Mojito and he had one!
Later that day I got chatted up by two really nasty guys – I simply could not get rid of them! Lucky for me I met the three Danish girls from the plane, they were pulled by some other Cubans to the same bar as I was – Ha ha it was lucky in more manners. I could skip the Cubans and they could get rid of there.
Also we agreed to take a car and get out of Havana…. – Best decision girls!! Vinales – mountains, food and danceFrom the bad food of Havana – we drove to the beautiful valley of vinales! Amazing place if you ask me. We stayed at Juan’s place, private home. This guy was really great! First of all prices was ok, second, they really knew how to service us. They did the food, well the most amazing breakfast, Juan did the drinks for us and dinner – well it does not get any better. Here I really tasted some good original Cuban food, and Juan showed how hospitality can be!
Vinales featured great sights and tobacco plants, trekking and is not even far from the beach. If you ask me of cause, the best part (again) was the dancing. We had great times here.
The last day I was getting in to system talk with Juan, he studied economics, like me actually. Well he was not taught bout capitalism, but that is no wonder I guess
) After ending the studies he had been working as CFO for a hotel chain, making the sum of 20 dollars per month! A few years in that and he quit, only to attend a job as a bar tender. In three days he would now make the same amount as he did as a CFO. This is caused by the tourist industry and the tips they give. Well this is actually all you need to explain the lacking drive in Cuban society. It might be that education is free, and it might be everybody has a job. But if the income is so inelastic then there is no benefit in the long run to achieve the higher productivity, you are sort of safe in the same time as you don’t receive the benefits from working hard. This is of cause a good example of lacking capitalism.
At one time I find it positive that people have jobs, but on the other hand the inability to promote higher productivity is negative. At least if you ask me! The upper is the economist speaking, never the less, when you are there and meet the hospitality, the general happiness, you can live with it.
Back to Havana:
Driving to the beach of Maria de la gorda was a great relaxing experience, the diving was amazing, but I will skip this for now and head back to Havana talking about happy people, hookers and an amazing birthday. Well I got back – the girls left for Trinidad – I wanted to stay in Havana for dancing and to get under the skin of the Cubans.
After one day I met a Cuban guy called Julio – this turned out really good. We had a few drinks, and Julio took me and some friend to a Cuban 15 years birthday. What a great experience, it was in the outskirts of Havana – a big day for some girl and her father. Just to see how they danced all night, and how the father taught all his children how to do the salsa – amazing.
They did not have a lot, but they were having fun! We went out that night, and the following night, to real Cuban parties – I was the only tourist, and I have never danced more in my life!
Thanks guys for the amazing days together I had a few nights out in the central Havana part – this was the contrast to the upper. Trying to go dancing with some Cuban girls realizing a lot of them being prostitutes, well suppose it is the bad part again. These girls could make a fortune doing that – but it disturbs my humanity and made me fell really bad.
Again this feeling of the two sided society gets to me, the structure of the Cuban political system is offering a better place than a lot of other places in the world, but the limitations of closeness, no freedom of speech and no capitalism, really puts thoughts in my head.
Cheers and possible updates to this in a few days
Holm